Easy Crochet for Summer: Crochet Crop Top (Blouse) Pattern + Video Tutorial

This is an elegant, easy crochet top blouse pattern for summer! Made with cotton aran yarn, this modern crochet top blouse will keep you cool all summer long!

This free top-blouse crochet pattern is also accompanied by an awesome video tutorial!

Written Pattern

*The sizing guide follows size XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL). E.g. “Ch 88(96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136), means Ch 88 for XS, Ch 96 for Small, Ch 104 for Medium, Ch 112 for Large, Ch 120 for XL, Ch 128 for 2XL and Ch 136 for 3XL.

*”DC 10″ means DC into the next 10 stitches.

*”2DC” means place 2 DC into the same stitch.

*Ch 3 always counts as a stitch unless otherwise noted.

*Ch 3 can be replaced with a ‘No Turning Chain Stitch’ which reduces the visible seam.

*Total stitches are indicated between < >.

*This pattern uses US crochet terms.

LEVEL: Easy

MATERIALS:

Yarn – Rico Creative Cotton Aran – Aran/Worsted (10 ply), 85m/50g, 100% Cotton, Light Blue (32)
XS = 4 skeins, S = 5, M = 6, L = 7, XL = 7, 2XL, = 8, 3XL = 9

5mm (US H) Crochet Hook

8 Stitch Markers

Darning Needle

Scissors

STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS:

Ch = Chain
Sl st = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
SC2tog = Single Crochet 2 stitches together
DC = Double Crochet

Rep = repeat

St(s) = stitche(s)

SPECIAL STITCHES:

Scallop – 5DC into the same stitch

MEASUREMENTS cm:

Bust: 76, 87, 94, 105, 112, 123, 130
Armhole: 15, 16.5, 17.5, 19, 20.5, 22, 23
Length: 42, 43, 44.5, 46, 47, 48.5, 50

MEASUREMENTS inches:

Bust: 30, 34, 37, 41, 44, 48, 51
Armhole: 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9
Length: 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, 18.5, 19, 19.5

Yoke

FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 88(96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136), sl st into the 1st ch to form a ring. Make sure that your stitches aren’t twisted!

ROUND 1: Ch 3, DC 8(9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14), 2DC – place a st marker in the 2nd DC,
DC 9(10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15), 2DC – place a st marker in the 2nd DC,
DC 13(14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19), 2DC – place a st marker in the 2nd DC,
*DC 9(10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15), 2DC – place a st marker in the 2nd DC; rep from * 2 more times, DC 13(14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19), 2DC – place a st marker in the 2nd DC, DC 9(10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15), 2DC – place a st marker in the 2nd DC, sl st to join.
<96(104, 112, 120, 128, 136, 144)>

ROUND 2: Ch 3, DC 9(10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15), 2DC, DC 10(11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16), 2DC, DC 14(15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20), 2DC, *DC 10(11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16), 2DC; rep from * 2 more times, DC 14(15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20), 2DC, DC 10(11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16), 2DC, sl st to join.
<104(112, 120, 128, 136, 144, 152)>
*When stitching into the st with a st marker, always remove and replace the st marker on top of the 2ndDC.

ROUND 3: Ch 3, *DC in each st until the st marker, 2DC in st with a st marker; rep from * until the end, sl st to join.
<112(120, 128, 136, 144, 152, 160)>

Repeat ROUND 3 until ROUND 11(121314151617).
<176(192, 208, 224, 240, 256, 272)>

Remove all st markers.

YOKE INCREASE ROUND 1: Ch 3, DC in each st until end of the round, sl st to join.

YOKE INCREASE ROUND 2: Ch 3, DC in each st until end of the round, sl st to join.

YOKE INCREASE ROUND 3: Ch 3, DC 35(39, 41, 45, 47, 51, 53) – insert a st marker, DC 37(37, 41, 41, 45, 45, 49) – insert a st marker, DC 51(59, 63, 71, 75, 83, 87) – insert a st marker, DC 37(37, 41, 41, 45, 45, 49) – insert a st marker, DC 15(19, 21, 25, 27, 31, 33) until end of the round.
<176(192, 208, 224, 240, 256, 272)>

After YOKE INCREASE ROUND 3, st markers should be in the following stitches:

XS: 36th, 73rd, 124th and 161st stitches

S: 40th, 77th, 136th and 173rd stitches

M: 42nd, 83rd, 146th and 187th stitches

L: 46th, 87th, 158th and 199th stitches

XL: 48th, 93rd, 168th and 213th stitches

2XL: 52nd, 97th, 180th and 225th stitches

3XL: 54th, 103rd, 190th and 239th stitches

*You can try on the top – the stitch markers should just stretch to touch underneath your underarms and fit over your bust (it will be snug).

If the top is too tight/not long enough ADD more rows of YOKE INCREASE ROUND 1.

Once you’re satisfied with the fit, do not fasten off, move directly onto BODY instructions.

BODY

ROUND 1: Ch 3, DC in each st until the 1st st marker, DC into the st with the 1st st marker, DC into the st with the 2nd st marker (You have created your first armhole),
DC in each stitch until the 3rd st marker, DC into the st with the 3rd st marker, DC into the st with the 4th st marker (You have created your 2nd armhole), DC in each st until the end of the round, sl st to join.
<104(120, 128, 144, 152, 168, 176)>

ROUND 2: Ch 3, DC in each st until end of the round, sl st to join.
<104(120, 128, 144, 152, 168, 176)>

Repeat ROUND 2 until ROUND 15.

*You can add or remove rounds to reach your desired length. The scallop edging adds 1.5cm/0.5” of length to the top.

ROUND 16: Ch 1 (counts as a stitch), SC in each st until the end of the round, sl st to join.
<104(120, 128, 144, 152, 168, 176)>

ROUND 17: Skip 1st st, *skip 1 st, scallop, skip 1 st, sl st; rep from * until end (last sl st should be in the first st of the round), fasten off.
You should have <26(30, 32, 36, 38, 42, 44)> scallops.

SLEEVES

Insert your hook along the base of the armhole, secure yarn and pull through a loop.

ROUND 1: Ch 1(counts as a stitch), SC in each st of the round, in between the 2 st markers place 2 SC2tog, sl st to join.
<40(40, 44, 44, 48, 48, 52)>

ROUND 2: Skip 1st st, *skip 1 st, scallop, skip 1 st, sl st; rep from * until end (last sl st should be in the first st of the round), fasten off.
You should have <10(10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13)> scallops.

Repeat SLEEVE instructions for the 2nd sleeve.

Weave in all of your ends.

Video Tutorial

Source : forthefrills.com

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